7010 Goes Central

March 25: Mark's Perspective

2011-03-27T13:48:00.000-04:00

It is early, Curt and I are tired, he falls asleep on the toilet; getting up this morning is hard.

Maria picks us up and brings us to the Sheraton (Barack Obama stayed here 2 days ago) where the convention is held. The two of us get some breakfast and our energy beings to come back to us (best coffee of the trip!). 2:00 roles around, Curt and I have been here at the hotel since 9:30 as we take shifts between tweaking our presentation and napping.

Presentation goes amazing; Victor translates for us. Victor is an awesome person, we all wish we got to know him sooner than the last few days of the trip. As Kim mentioned, Curt sang 'Long many you run' by Neil young at the end of our presentation while slides of our trip flipped through on the screen. We hear pockets of the audience laugh or clap as most people in the room have been a part of our trip at one time or another. You can see people emotional, I am too.

This is it; the climax. One month of travel and this is our moment of thanks and reflection.

People approach us after and tell us that in 8 years, this is the best GSE presentation they have ever seen. Their sincerity is welcoming and it certainly makes us feel great that they enjoyed our journey.

At this point: mixed emotions. Two days left, a bit of a wind-down and it feels like this trip is finishing. I want to stay, maybe continue to Guatemala, Honduras and Belize, but I miss Jess. I can't wait to share with her and others our story.

I am going to miss meeting new, amazing, passionate people. People prepared to share, love, create. We have been in their homes and they are in our hearts.

MC

“Once in a while, we are given real moments of grace” ~ Oriah Mountain Dreamer

2011-03-26T18:11:00.004-04:00

Finished with a bang!

Yesterday, our team completed the final presentation and it was a huge success. Compliment after compliment, it was hard to digest that it was the last time our team would present in Central America. As I looked out at the crowd of people and saw the many familiar faces of those who have hosted us over the past month, it was hard to hold back the tears. Of course, Curt was singing in the background “Long May You Run” by Neil Young, so that didn’t help!

Together, our team traveled to four very different countries, saw many cultural and historical places, visited many beaches, and tasted a variety of new fruits, vegetables, meats and Rums.

We toured Cathedrals, coffee plantations, Rum factories, museums, embassies, schools, community development projects, small towns and villages, theaters, and ancient ruins.

We climbed volcanoes and surfed down one! We rode horses and bikes, swam in the ocean, learned to dance Salsa, Rumba and Merengue, and spent over 40 hours on the TicaBus together.

We laughed together, cried together, were exhausted together, were ill together, and received good news and bad news, together.

We became family and a special bond has been cultivated between us: That is what I will remember most about this trip. You can travel to the most exciting places in the world and see the most amazing things, but nothing leaves an impression on you like the people you have shared it with. Alicia, Curt, Mark and Doug have left a very big impression on my heart: Four amazing personalities and four very big hearts.

I am changed, I am moved, and I am a better person for knowing you.

Thanks for all the laughter, love and memories:)

~ What if becoming who and what we truly are happens not through striving and trying but by recognizing and receiving the people and places and practices that offer us the warmth of encouragement we need to unfold? ~

~ Oriah Mountain Dreamer

Memories from the Conference

In the News

2011-03-25T20:49:00.000-04:00

The Barrie Examiner has been following us for the last few weeks:

Rotary members exchange ideas in Central America

Exchange an eye-opener

MC

The Leader Has Spoken

2011-03-25T13:56:00.001-04:00

As we enter the home stretch of this incredible journey , it is time to pause and reflect on what we have all been through over the past three and half weeks . With many ups and very few downs, as Team Leader , I am pleased to report that our Team has been a pleasure to lead ( we are not sure who is leading whom ?) and the energy and enthusiasm with which our four young professionals have conducted themselves has greatly exceeded my expectations . For sure ,friendships have been made that will be lasting both within the Team and throughout the four Countries we have had the priviledge of calling home since our departure from Canada on February 27th .

It has also been a pleasant surprise to us that the blog has created such a huge following of interested readers ( over 5000 viewers) from all over the world and I thank the Team Members ( Curt and Mark esp) who have been so diligent ( dare I say obsessive ) in completing the Blog on a regular basis with such an editorial and creative flare. I also would like to congratulate myself on doing such a great job of delegating this important task to our Team Members whose talents and interests shine in this area ( Well done Doagmooodieeee).

As the Blog demonstrates, we have had very different experiences in all four countries; however, it is equally clear that we are seeing common threads throughout and it is on this point I would like to elaborate - as it speaks to the very essence of Rotary's objective for the Group Study Exchange which has been in existence for 30 + years

Without exception, we are being greeted and hosted by committed Rotarians and their families as they take us into their homes unconditionally. We arrive after 12 hour bus rides ( sometimes unexpectedly ) with our dirty laundry and hungry stomachs and we are welcomed into their homes as if we are faimily ( or in some cases royalty!). A Hosts' responsibility is to give us a bed and breakfast - period. However, as you have seen from the Blog, in some instances, our Hosts have accommodated us all and have been our Guides and chauffeurs for the week . The Comittment is incredible and we are seeing Rotarians who spend a great deal of their personal time helping the impoverished in their commuunities and beyond . It is clear that they are doing it in an incredibly modest and humble way with the sole intention of helping improve the quality of life for the less fortunate - because they can ! Interestingly, the People they are trying to help are proud, pleasant people , who , while very appreciative of the assistance , do not feel they have been hard done by ; rather , we have seen generous gestures of sharing during our visits to their simple communities such as offerings of fruit by Elders and the sharing of candies from the pinitias by the kids.
　
As Team Leader and a Rotarian , it is important to me that we take away as much from this experience as possible with a view to helping these people in need . In this regard , it is important that this four week "Mission" is the just the beginning of our journey . The people we have met and the Projects we have seen are an introduction for us to match Rotary Clubs in our District in Canada with Clubs and projects in Central America . Our Blog will help serve as a chronology of Contacts and projects - indeed the work has just begun for all of us.

DM

The Mushy Gushy Stuff

2011-03-25T11:40:00.005-04:00

I am laying in bed right now, eyes wide open despite the opportunity to sleep in this morning. The warm sunshine and day's expectations motivate me to move. As we have learned over the course of the trip, my strengths rarely include specific numbers or estimations, however there are some important faces that will never leave my memory...some Salvadorian people that have yet to be mentioned:

Lilliana - my host the first night in Santa Ana and our local guide

Lily and Hanns - the hosts for Km and me in San Salvador

That is just a quick sample of the compassionate and welcoming people we have had the opportunity to meet over the past 4 weeks. These remarkable Rotarians and community members define our experience with their warmth and hospitality. A common phrase (regardless of their English language capabilities) is: my house is your house (mi casa, su casa)- which is said with great sincerity.

As Mark mentioned, seeing the familiar faces at the conference is exciting and overwhelming, as it brings you back to all the smiles, laughter and conversations that you have had with each person. Not everyone can make it to the conference and some will be missed (shout out to Andy and Ros, Manuel, and many more), but one can't help but feel like they are a part of this big family stretching across 4 very distinct countries in Central America.

Other memorable moments include:

In Santa Ana with both clubs, having our Canadian anthem played in addition to the Salvadorian anthem (the selected version also included French/English!);
Juan standing up with the GSE team when introduced at the conference - member #6? Eyda who just nods in acknowledgement;
Roberto, our Nicaraguan host, first words a week since we left "I needed to see you";
San Miguel group (whom we didn't visit due to the miscommunication error) inviting us back, despite our first missed opportunity;
a great big bear hug from Dawn, a familiar and remarkable face to see after 4 weeks of travel;
my other hosts in Santa Ana, Jose and his wonderful family - sitting, staring, smiling and nodding awkwardly, upon our first meeting, with Spanglish hardly even being an option.

A common question we receive - "What was our favourite place and/or most memorable moments?" I struggle to answer this one with anything definite because you simply can't give every country the justice it deserves, and each one offers entirely different things from the other. What stands out to me, in the wise words of a Rotarian is: we are all here, we are all connected, by our common vision to make a difference in our communities. How true of an observation. Some of our best memories were meeting people who really demonstrated passion through their professions or involvement in Rotary projects. It's the people who make a country, and I feel honoured (as do my teammates) to have been a part of their lives, big or small.

Gearing up for our day now! Excited to see loved ones, sad to leave here but comforting in knowing we will return.

March 24: Mark's Perspective

2011-03-25T03:46:00.000-04:00

12:30am right now, Curt and I are sharing a room at a Rotarian named Carlos in San Salvador. My turn to blog; Curt just put his head down on the pillow and said "make me sound intelligent." No promises. 30 seconds and he is snoring... really snoring.

We had a full day as expected. It started with breakfast and a quick visit to Roberto's family's call center company (awk I know). Roberto Eduardo Guerra (24 years old) has been a key role in having us in Santa Ana. He is a Rotaract President and founder of the club that is only 9 months old and is currently a medical student. He deserves a shout out for all the work he has done to take care of us.

Roberto and his girlfriend

We drive 20 minutes out of Santa Ana to Lago de Coatepeque (Lake of Coatepeque). The lake is the crater of a volcano - dark blue water, warm on the top, extremely cold below.

We are here with the Rotaract club and we enjoy each others company at a private club. Our time is filled with laughter and camaraderie. Doug pays $20 for a half hour boat ride for 15 people. When we return, Curt plays the guitar by the pool. We enjoy every last part of this tranquil visit as the Rotary conference starts tonight and we will have a busy next few days.

We arrive in San Salvador. Alicia and Kim are staying together for the last few nights and Doug will be solo, Curt and I get picked up by Carlos. 15 minutes to shower and we are off to the district conference.
It is overwhelming! Lots of key people that we have met over the last 4 weeks are in one room and we cannot keep up with the greetings.

Two familiar faces we gravitate to are Juan and Eyda (Juan is the rum tycoon from Panama that we stayed with on his estate). We get to see Dawn Straka, the district governor for our area back in Canada. She has visited the area quite a few times due to her involved in wheelchair donations.

It is a night of socialization outside on the museum's property, a beautiful venue... I am tired. Tomorrow we will present to the district conference.

MC

March 23 Perspective

2011-03-24T01:54:00.000-04:00

Best breakfast yet. These are the best Huevos Rancheros I have had in Central America. Fresh squeezed pineapple juice, great coffee, and a piece of pecan pie complete the meal. I am a happy man to start the day.

The breakfast pours colour back into Kim's face, and light into her eyes. WELCOME BACK SOLDIER! We're off to tour a coffee mill: J Hill y CIA. It's beautiful, from storage barns, to the drying lots, to the sorting room, to the greenhouses. We snap pictures, and listen intently on all the steps required to make a pot or cup of coffee.

It's very impressive, and they have even converted their office computers to run off a bank of solar panels and batteries. Interesting for me, as my girlfriend Laura and I live the same way in Canada (thanks for introducing me to a no-bills lifestyle LT).

There is also the most amazing tree I've ever seen in my life on the property. It is a cotton tree, and is over 250 years old. I want to see this tree again before I die.

Two espressos, and we're off to Liliana's house for supplies, restrooms, and to see her two little dogs.

We head into the mountains, stopping in a small town near the peak to tour around. There's a cute artisan shop that makes their own clothing, unfortunately the loom staff are on lunch, so we don't see any action.

After getting a few gifts for those of you at home, we sampled some new fruits (to us) in the market, and then headed for lunch. A few minutes out of town we dined at a restaurant situated on a coffee plantation. It had cabins for rent, as well as numerous facilities for wedding receptions and even it's own chapel for ceremonies. The experience was top notch, from the chunky menus with tin fronts, to the amazing meal...tortilla soup, crostini w funghi, spinach lasagna w salad...

We head back down the mountain, stopping a few times at lookouts to enjoy the view, and snap some photos. Kim and I pass out in the back of the van, listening to a great mix of Be Good Tanyas, Joe Purdy, and Wailin' Jennys.

After a quick blog and clean-up at home, we're headed to a big supper. A father/son team (Roberto Jr&Sr) host nearly 60 Rotarians/Rotaracts for dinner of typical foods. It's a social night, and they're happy to have us. We say a few thank-you's, and the guitar is out again...they want Pat Benetar (weird request), but they settle for a few others. I think they genuinely enjoy the music, or they fake well enough that I feel good about playing for them.

The night winds down in good time, and we're in bed by 11. I'm blogging away, and Doug is sleeping. Tonight he is holding nothing back with his snoring. I close my eyes and try to figure out how to describe the sound...a baby chainsaw crossed with a congested man who swallowed his tongue...maybe?!?!

I guess my iPod will sing me to sleep tonight...

CGD

March 22 Perspective

2011-03-23T20:25:00.000-04:00

Maybe the busiest day of our trip so far! We start with team breakfast at Mister Donut...doesn't sound very Central American, I know, but the buffet has all the best local options: fried plantains, chorizo, beans, tortillas, eggs, etc... Alicia has another Skype interview, so we'll catch up with her later.

We go to the hospital, where we're toured around by the Rotaract Club, many of whom are med students. They are working on a project to equip an unused space with toys and games for children, as there are currently no good ways for children to entertain themselves as they wait for care.

From there we're off to the local theatre (not Doug, he has a vocational visit). It was badly damaged by earthquakes and the civil war, and has been undergoing a 20 year restoration. It still has lots of character, and amazing acoustics!

Next we meet the Mayor, who is a Rotarian! He shares with us their municipal government structure, and some of their biggest challenges. He is off on a road-trip to LA and Calgary to exchange ideas on commerce and garbage disposal. It is very interesting for me, and he is great at answering questions directly.

Next we meet a tour guide and hear the history on the cathedral. It, too, is undergoing some alterations and cleaning.

We grab an ice cream, as Kim summons energy to plod on. It is hard to watch a teammate struggle, as we've all had our down days, and know how hard it is to push on when you're sick, hot and tired.

We have lunch at Mario's seafood bar, and we all agree it's the best fish we've had on the trip. Liliana brings hre Magic Jack, and we all make a call home.

TAZUMAL - My first experience at a Meso-American ruins. It's very impressive up close, and we take our time wandering the grounds. The engineering, design, and construction are overwhelmingly impressive.

We get an hour at home to nap and clean up, and we're off to Mario's steakhouse for our first Rotary meeting in El Salvador. It's a large group comprising 2 clubs, and a Rotaract club. I play a few songs after the presentation, and the Rotaractors take us for drinks.

We're all worried that they want to party, as we had a long day, but we end up at a nice house and enjoy a couple drinks on a patio while I play a few more songs.

A day of culture, in bed by 12, everything is going great...BUT...

Dugmooodeee snores all night in our shared room, and the 3 dogs in the house start barking at sunrise and don't stop. Wednesday will be a long day.

CGD

March 21 Perspective

2011-03-23T19:55:00.000-04:00

Since we were supposed to be in San Miguel, the plans for today and tomorrow are being thrown together. There are a group of students (& chaperones) from District 7040 (eastern Ontario and some Quebec and northern USA) who are working and doing some tourism in San Salvador. We hitched a ride with them to a Rotarian's house on the ocean. It was great to hear from high-school aged kids who are involved with such great service oriented projects. They're definitely having some fun while doing it, but they're focused on giving back.

We got some good exercise, and reflected on the differences we'd experience...country to country, and expectations to reality.

We arrive back for a tea, and were whisked away to Santa Ana, where we'll be staying until Thursday. The first day of meeting your new hosts/billets is always a little awkward. Will they speak English? Will the house be comfortable? Will they be genuinely interested in us?

Needless to say, the Rotarians in Santa Ana gave us the warmest welcome so far. We enjoyed Pupusas, their local dish, and even did a little dancing. Doug & I are staying with Mario, who owns 3 restaurants. We stop for a scotch and tour of two of them en route home. They are expansive places, and his staff are knowledgeable and engaging. His home is close by, and is warm and inviting without being over the top. Doug and I are roomies, and it feels like university again.

CGD

March 20: Plan B

2011-03-23T10:52:00.003-04:00

Up and at it 3:30am today.

We left our current home, yet again, to set out for a new adventure in a new Country. Our destination: El Salvador. Our means of travel: the oh so comfy Ticabus!

Prepared this time with snacks and toilet paper, the ride seemed shorter and less draining even with two boarder crossings and four checkpoints.

There was no getting off the bus and lining up like school children to have strange men with guns feel through all our personal belongings. We just simply passed over our passports and across the boarders we went.

Entertainment for the bus ride: Movies.

The movies: The Mechanic (again!), Gifted Hands (so good!), and some horrible Tom Cruise movie (almost awkward to watch…so bad!)

Around 4:00pm we rolled in only to find out that we were supposed to get off the bus in San Migual where our host families were waiting excitedly to greet us and then take us to their homes for a big dinner. San Minuel is about 3 hours back in the direction we came!

How did this happen? We still don’t know. What we do know is that our host families watched from their cars as the bus passed by our pick up location and then proceeded to chase the bus down. This only caused the driver to speed up because he thought the chasing vehicles were up to no good!

Once off the bus in Sans Salvador, we waited about 20 minutes before being greeted with our “plan B” host families. We were greeted with warm smiles and hugs despite the inconveniences we had caused them. In no time we were being whisked away to one of the Rotarian’s homes for drinks and dinner. By 8:00pm, we were taken to our back up host families for the night.

View from the backyard!

Three weeks in before any of us dropped the ball, I’d say that’s pretty good!

Finally a blog,

KT

More Q & A

2011-03-22T01:17:00.001-04:00

Some more questions from back home:

Q. Tell me about the trip to El Salvador. First impressions?

A. It was much easier than the other international Ticabus trips. It was still 10+hours but we did not get our bags searched… at least not to the extent that it was from Panama to Costa Rica. We went through Honduras to get to El Salvador so there were 2 border crossings. I think we are getting better at travelling this way.

There was a mix up to where were suppose to be dropped off. Our tickets said destination: San Salvador. We drove through San Miguel, not knowing people were waiting for us there. Kim will blog more on this…

First impressions: awesome country; once again complete different from any of the other countries. The Rotarians that we have met are leaving a great impression of what the people are like here: warm, hospitable, accommodating. On the bus, Doug befriended a local who stayed with us until we were able to contact our billets. He translated for us a few times and offered a level of comfort.

Q. What is the weather like?

A. Nicaragua hit 39 degrees Celsius before humidity when we visited one of the remote villages. We wore dress shoes to the village (presentation later that day and to be honest we had no idea we were going), you could feel the extreme heat come from the ground up into your feet! At night it went down below 30 degrees, depending on where we were.

El Salvador is more like Costa Rica: nice warm temperatures but we still needed a sweater outside at night.

Q. Have you enjoyed Nicaragua more/less than the other countries?

A. Nicaragua was different from the other countries in many ways. It was a much more relaxed pace than the other countries which was nice to recover a little and enjoy ourselves at the beach, but the nature of the program is busy and intense so we missed out on that a little. It is a beautiful country but it is the second poorest in the Americas (poorest is Haiti). Poverty is everywhere.

The team enjoyed Leon (I loved Leon), Masaya and Granada. Personally I found Managua (the capital) tough due to high crime and a constant need for heightened situational awareness. While Kim and Curt were a little sick the last night in Managua, Doug, Alicia and I went out to get snacks and cash. The hotel insisted that we cannot leave without the hotel’s driver. While waiting for the driver, Alicia walked outside the front of the hotel. The receptionist yelled telling her to get back in the lobby. So even with the two security guards with shotguns standing outside it was still perceived to be dangerous to be out there. Don’t worry, we are not there anymore.

Q. What was your first full day like?

A. Today was our first full day in El Salvador. We joined some Interact students from Canada at the beach.

Q. Are Curt and Kim feeling better?

A. Yes. Curt recovered a few hours before the bus trip (thank god, I was sitting beside him!) and Kim recovered most of her energy.

Q. How many hits on the blog?

A. 4724. Most of the audience is obviously from Canada but there are strong numbers following from Panama, United States, El Salvador, Costa Rica and Nicaragua. There must be a small audience from Morocco, United Kingdom and Mexico. Chile is showing hits, which would be Ana Luisa Sepulveda following us; she is an international consultant from Chile that we spent a day with in Panama. Hola Ana!

MC

March 19th: Mark's Perspective

2011-03-21T00:08:00.016-04:00

Up at 7:00am, no way our bodies let us sleep in. We say our goodbyes to Roberto, our main host for Nicaragua, and we are off with Rosa Marina and other Rotarians.

We are brought to a site for a future pedestrian suspension bridge. We first were wondering why we were here, standing in front of a dried up river bed and no evidence of a project: there is a school on our side of the river. They tell us that in the rainy season the river swells and is dirty, deep and dangerous. Because of this, the children on that side of the river cannot cross to go to school (300 students at this school and half are affected by the river). There is a bridge 500m up river but it is old and will not last many more years.

The Rotary club has joined with an American organization called Bridges to Prosperity. This organization builds bridges from donated material. The proposed bridge to be built at this location is being designed by students at Notre Dame and will be a suspension bridge made of old cables that were used to tie ships to docks. The total cost of the bridge will be $15,000 - majority of the cost is associated with shipping the material. First thing I thought of was recycling the strandjack cables that Western (company I work for in Canada) must scrap after every 5 uses; pretty awe-inspiring if we could contribute to bettering communities by building infrastructure they need with our waste.

We move on. We go to a school (today is Saturday) to meet the children, play piñata and listen to their needs. Playing with the kids is what we turn this experience into...

Back to a Rotarian's house for lunch, presentation outside on the porch, and some Curt Dunlop entertainment. Curt sings a few songs, then the guitar is passed to Rosa Marina. She sings traditional Nicaraguan songs and all the fellow Nicaraguans in the room join in ~ awesome! They tell us that their tradition is that if someone sings, then someone else must sing back or tell a joke. Curt is jealous of this cultural exchange and points out that the 4 other Canadians in the room did not sing along with him.

Tour of Managua then at the hotel to pack; last few hours in Nicaragua. Kim's body has been fading out all day and once we get back to the hotel, Curt can't be too far from a bathroom... Hope they are better for the 3:30am wakeup call and 10 hour bus ride in the morning!

Nicaragua Perspective - Group Photos

2011-03-19T20:18:00.000-04:00

Nicaraguan Perspective - Individual Photos

2011-03-19T20:04:00.000-04:00

maternal instincts?

biking and smiling...talented girl

sun protection post volcano slide

happily feeding children in need

playing student

dugmoodee the professor

which way does the old pony run?

volcanic dust is so tasty

Curt's vocational...

a moment of quiet reflection

adventure seeker, Mark Carney

Mark making fun of Curt's door fetish

Dear Jess, you're welcome, Love Curt

Mark loves kids

This Mark loves kids more. This much

Pretty happy for riding a bike with no breaks.

Those glasses are a just the right size for you Kim

Medium cute photo

Hike up volcano, get a photo on , psych yourself, ride down

Do you two like each other?

Self portrait post volcano slide

Make a face at the camera

It's a what fruit?

It's my hat. Everyone else just looks better in it

I would live here

March 18 Perspective

2011-03-19T11:23:00.000-04:00

It's early. Roberto forgot we had luggage, and so we're strapping it to the top of his SUV with ropes. Quite the site. It's a couple hours back to the Managua where we'll be spending the last few days in Nicaragua.

We drop our luggage at our new hotel in Managua, and head to the inauguration of a new primary school. Two American Rotary clubs spear-headed the effort, and everyone is in great spirits as they officially open the school. Live music, dancing, gifts, speeches...it's a spectacle.

We're whisked away just before lunch. Masaya is a large town with a wonderful market for tourists. We enjoy lunch, and wander around, picking up gifts for some folks back home. Kim and I can't resist the fresh squeezed juice bar...so many options:

We meet the Masaya Rotary club for an informal tour via horse-drawn carriage. We see a school they have nearly completed, and then pass Nicaragua lake. The horses aren't as healthy as we're used to seeing, but the waterfront trails and trees make up for it.

We arrive to a cute street full of cafes, restaurants, pubs and bars. No cars, and lots of street performers make it a great spot to spend a couple hours. We enjoy a serenade, some great Nicaraguan rum, and a selection of appetizers. It's a busy place, and understandably so. We could spend the whole month here easily.

Roberto takes us back to the hotel, and the boys all get a swim. The pool is cool, which is refreshing. I enjoy my first warm shower of the trip, and we sort through pictures, and get a blog out. I had a little more FOMO tonight, as my girl (Laura) is seeing Joel Plaskett in concert, and my family is there with her. Unfortunate that we cannot be everywhere at once. We get 8 hours of sleep. 8 days left.
CGD.

March 17 Perspective

2011-03-19T09:08:00.001-04:00

Thanks to my teammates, who allowed me a few days away from the computer while we were enjoying some down-time.

We awoke to our last full day at the beach hotel. It's hot, and it's only 7am. This morning requires pants, socks, shoes, and long sleeves for some of us...we're hiking a volcano just outside of Leon. We pick up a guide/sherpa named Wilbur and off we go. There's a 1.5 L water bottle for each of us...I guess we're in for some more heat!

We stop en route to see the well drilling rig that they've been using, thanks to a Rotary Club in Tulsa, Oklahoma.

We drive 30 mins outside the city, and stop at the check-in to sign some waivers and pick up our gear. It isn't much, but has us a little timid for what's in store. The safety gear is goggles and knee/elbow pads, and the sleds are rigged plywood. What are we doing?
It's hot as we exit the vehicle at the base of the volcano. This isn't regular hot. This is 39 plus humidity, plus ridiculous amounts of UV. We're about to climb a massive hill/small mountain that is completely black.

As we ascend, the wind gets stronger. It's so strong I use my board as a sail to assist me in climbing to the peak. The Kim & Doug allow Wilbur to carry their boards so they can walk safely. At the peak we find a group just about to slide down on their boards. They are wearing canvas overalls and gloves, and it's really steep. There is talk of walking back down. We watch, cameras ready to see how crazy it is. It isn't. The loose pebble & sand don't allow speeds anywhere near what we would experience on a normal toboggan hill in the winter.

Of course we're all going to do it...even Doug, who swears he's the oldest person to sign into the guest book. Two by two we head down, getting covered in black dust, and trying to avoid a crash. There were no deaths, although we were told many Canadians perish.

We're dirty, hot, and very tired. We opt to go out for tacos when we return to the beach. It's one of the heartiest and best meals of the trip...good call Kim!
We get a few hours R&R, although we all stay out of the sun and get some rest. Heading to our first Rotary meeting in Nicaragua, we stop to meet Mickey Moore, a hard working man from Tulsa who has been the key cog in bringing water to over 30,000 people in Nicaragua. We present to 9 members of the Leon Rotary Club, as well as Mickey and his translator. We're off for our last night in Leon...Latin music & dancing at a popular night-spot.

It's busy. Sardines in a can busy. Sweaty, pushy, young people are everywhere. They dance. They really dance. Salsa, meringue, tango, and lots more. It's sexy. A man and a woman interacting on the dance-floor. I am ashamed for our culture. We have no dancing like this.

Wilbur is there with his brother, Angel, who is a dance instructor. He takes turns with all of us, and we let loose. It's hard. The steps aren't easy, the rhythms are difficult to recognize, and there are pushy people everywhere. We laugh at ourselves, and each other. It's St Patty's day, and there are some people painted green.

Watch those feet Kim...it's a meringue!

The dancing ends at midnight, which saves us from too hurtful a morning. We're off to Managua tomorrow first thing!!
I'm happy to be back blogging.
CGD

Costa Rican Rotary Clubs

2011-03-19T00:38:00.000-04:00

Tranquilo

2011-03-16T23:55:00.001-04:00

We are catching ourselves this morning from saying that we are on vacation today....wake up to breakfast, check our emails, hop on some bikes and coast to the neighborhood primary school.

We immerse ourselves in the shy, smiling faces and try to bond with our limited knowledge of Spanish which mainly consists of Ola, mi nombre es Alicia...como esta? and then you default to the point and stare...with kids it usually works. We parade around the room learning the Spanish names for mammals and numbers. The boys attract attention with their cameras.

I can't help but notice that there is a sweet crying child to my left who accepts my offer for a hug. The teacher rectifies the issue as I comfort the girl. My maternal instincts kick in, as I facilitate her beautiful smiling face.

We race back to hotel Suyapa and brace ourselves for the waves. Curt, Mark and I run in, they coax me out farther so I don't get pushed to the shore with every cruel punch the ocean throws. I accept the challenge and move out to catch the waves. One big wave comes thrashing in and literally brings me tumbling to the shore, feet in the air. I roll onto my feet acknowledging my defeat with sand all over my face, hair going in every direction and pockets full. The burn of the sand rash is stinging my shoulder...hmm I guess that's why surfers dress a little more appropriately.

We retire to the tables and order a beverage. I seek out a hammock for some reflection time. I am thankful for having some down time in this excessive heat.. We eat lunch - delicious chicken salad and steak dishes. Kim orders fish but gets the WHOLE fish, head in all and can't manage to eat it given the choice. The pace is relaxed but quickens in spurts.

Our afternoon begins with a tour of Roberto's farm. Kim, Doug and Roberto hop on horses and ride around the property. He shows us his animals including goats, cattle, horses, chickens, and so forth and tell us of his eco-tourism plans.

Curt's excitement level increases as he sees Laura's vocation in practice.

Our tour takes us to Leon next where we spend a few hours walking the city and taking in the scenes of markets, churches, local foods and of course a cafe.

Mark...saw a 2 year old doing the same pose...enough said.

Curt and his door fetish, who took an hour worth of door photos....just doors.

We enjoy a dinner out nearby the city square as the sun retires for the day. We finish off the night with some snacks, laughs and cards.

Until next time....AR

Ooops!

2011-03-16T22:59:00.000-04:00

March 15th: Mark's Perspective

2011-03-16T10:20:00.001-04:00

5:08am, laying in bed waiting for my 5:15 alarm. Curt is in another bed at my feet and Doug is across the room. I get up, get my bathing suit on slowly without making a noise. I pick up my pre-packed bag of camera and tripod and head out the hotel room door. I knock on room 20's door: Kim and Alicia.

I know it is early especially seeing I got to sleep at 12:30 the night before. I don't care; I am an amateur photographer and one of the toughest things about photography is having the chance to photograph beautiful scenery; and I have a few new techniques I want to give a try.

Alicia is game to check out the sunrise while the rest of the team sleeps. She plans to jog but it seems a leisurely stroll at this hour will suffice. We walk out the back of the hotel patio to a mob of barking street dogs that use the beach to sleep: we scared them. It is dark and it takes a minute to realize how many there are, quite a few. There are dogs everywhere!

We walk to a river that meets the ocean. Fishermen are starting their day as white herons and other birds dive in the water for their first meal.

We walk back the hotel and go for a swim in the waves. I go in the water maybe 20 feet and the first wave pushed harder than expected. Alicia is not more than 5 feet from land and she gets knocked off her feet and thrown on the beach. Unexpectedly these waves are 7 to 8 feet tall and we cannot venture very far.
After breakfast, Roberto Reyes (Rotarian and owner of the hotel) picks us up and we head to the hospital in Leon for a press conference. The local Rotary clubs have donated some equipment and we are part of the program. We are taken aside by a few doctors that ask for our financial help in some programs they want to start at the hospital. More potential projects for the clubs back in Canada.

After the hospital, we drive to the hardware store that Roberto owns to pick up water buckets, school supplies and a pinata. We start driving out of the city, further down a dirt road, progressively becoming more and more bumpy and unused. We pass cows, boys on small-underweight horses and men on bikes; no cars.

Roberto is bring the supplies to a remote village. While there he shows us the 3 wells that the Rotary clubs have installed.

We set up the pinata. The local school teacher organizes the children and the blindfold. I quickly realize how dangerous this game is!

I asked Roberto to what grade the children in this community go to school for. Grade 4.

We have fun with the kids and pinata and the women of the village are grateful for their new water buckets. The men of the village are on hammocks, almost mocking our activities and certainly not showing any interest.
It became apparent that Roberto donated the supplies to the village on our behalf and the thank you's are directed to us; we do not deserve it. Roberto is a man with a heart larger than he is.

We continue with our Leon local tour with a visit to the local University and a school that teaches English. We stop by a local cafe that Curt is interested in (the publican in him) that over looks the city's main square and the basilica that was built in 1709 (not the oldest church in this city). This city is bustling at a relaxed pace; everyone is out but not in a rush. We feel safe, quite the contract to the dangers of Managua, the capital city.

Back to the hotel. Curt and I head for the waves. We are like children! We look at each other: perma-smiles. Body surfing the waves and having a great time. One large wave comes in and we start riding in it's surf; this one is too big. We get brought to the bottom and dragged on the sand. I have a burn on my arm and back, Curt is scraped on his shoulder. This one beached us.

For dinner we head to Robert's home, greeted by his family and one of the Doctors we met at the hospital earlier in the day. Curt entertained with guitar and singing and we spark interesting conversations on Nicaragua politics, health care, education and comparisons to Canada... very interesting.

Curt and I end the day with blogging and emails. Educational, eye opening, R&R: productive day and we have learned lots and enjoyed much of this country. Once again I am humbled.

MC

March 14 Perspective

2011-03-16T01:07:00.000-04:00

Awake. Refreshed. Ready for Nicaragua.

The team gathers in our hotel lobby, and we're greeted by Rotarians who share with us our itinerary. It seems like we are doing everything as a group, even vocational visits, which will be interesting.

Our hosts for the morning are Gonzalo and Mayte, from Companeros, who take us to a very poor neighbourhood where they are doing numerous projects. Their primary focus right now is a water project that will supply 200 homes/lots in a slum with fresh water. They also are working on building 16 houses for families most in need, and community murals to add culture and texture.

They use volunteer groups, many from Canada, and local labour (paid & volunteer) to dig the trenches where the pipe will go. We tour a school they've done some projects at, and we're off for lunch. The volunteers and community leaders gather midday to get out of the heat. There are a few musicians, so I join them and we lift the spirits of the group. They sing 'Three Little Birds' with me, and I have goose bumps.

Thanks to Alicia for having such an awesome vocation. We all wish our time here was longer.

We collect our bags from the hotel, and we're off to a new hotel. We stop on the way at a large lake with volcano islands, and Mark releases some energy on camera:

Roberto (a Rotarian) drives us to Leon, and on to his beachfront hotel, Suyapa Hotel. It's another beautiful, rather unpopulated beach. We're next to a surf school, and beach volleyball court. We'll be spoiled here until Friday.

Mark's camera is out for the sunset, while the girls soak in the view. We enjoy a large feast...Doug has a gorgeous lobster plate, and Mark goes right for the whole fish again.

Roberto heads for home, and we enjoy a night of reflection, cigars, and some cards. There are some great debates on the projects we've seen so far, that value in investing into local (Canadian) projects versus global projects, and the target demographic for Rotaracts and young Rotarians.

There's lots of laughter. The camaraderie of travel is wonderful. It's nice that we all get along, and enjoy similar discussions and adventures. We've met a few previous GSE members, and there are definitely some difficult group dynamics that can occur. Count us lucky. Thanks to all involved who put this team together, we're a cohesive unit.
Bedtime. Every (save me) wants to be up early tomorrow. Kim for yoga, Mark to shoot the sunrise, Alicia to run, and Doug to swim. It will be interesting to see who actually gets up at 5ish.

CGD

Delayed Reaction

2011-03-14T23:01:00.001-04:00

It has come to my attention that the blog is in need of a feminine perspective. Kim and I have been neglectful in contributing so I imagine readers are expecting more profound observations to be shared when we post….I will try to do it justice.

We are en route to the beach, however swimming may not be a part of our itinerary in light of the tsunami warnings that are recommending no one ventures into the Pacific coast, particularly ghostly-white, North-American tourists who are wanna-be surfers.

What we are hoping to master is our wildlife knowledge passing through Tarcoles “Crocodile bridge” and hitting the ocean for some adventure swimming.

Yesterday was a productive day for me and I had the opportunity to share my time with different people throughout the day, all fabulous in their own way. It started off with a quick Spanglish convo with my host’s mother who wanted to show me the news coverage for the earthquake that hit Japan and the tsunami impact. One thing about traveling is you live in the moment but with an unintentional lack awareness of everything that’s going on around you since all communication is in a foreign language and you hardly have time to hit the washroom in between activities (Kim always finds a way though).

Japanese flag hanging at half-mast at their embassy.

I was picked up by Melania who was a former GSE participant to Argentina in 2010. She impresses me with her knowledge, passion and genuine nature. She takes me out for breakfast and we order a typical breakfast with a new coffee contraption! The brew is fresh to say the least.

We immersed ourselves in conversation over cultural differences, domestic violence, psychology of people (her background) and GSE programming…we are interrupted by a phone call from Manuel who is making arrangements to pick me up from her workplace in 45 minutes!!!! Oops! We lost track of time enjoying each others' company and race to her work to have a quick tour. She tells me the English class is waiting for me…what?

Classroom where I met the employee class.

I arrive to the office and I am quickly whisked into the English class and introduced, followed by friendly inquiries about me, my family, my work, Canada, my travel and promises to return to Costa Rica. The company ingeniously offers English classes to all interested staff twice weekly since the staff comes from all corners of the world and their common working language is English. It was a warm environment that not only benefited from the language learning but the team-building aspect of accomplishing it together.

Education, Technology and Development Foundation

Melanie takes me on a quick tour and explains the significance of the organization in Latin America. They are the leading example in technology research and investing in education within Costa Rica. They have projects all over the country and staff members are passionate about their role in providing access to technology for students.

Manuel - the hidden gem of Costa Rica.

Manuel picks me up and we he graciously offers to take me to the UPEACE campus so I can feel confident that it has been passed into the hands of the staff for fate to take it from there. I am intrigued with our conversation all around the city, as Mark mentioned, Manuel is a little jewel of knowledge and experiences. We pick up Curt from his host’s house, Kim from her vocational visit, and head to Las Antijitos for lunch. From there we travel to Pavas with Rotarian members …… who do a lot of work in this impoverished neighbourhood that is challenged by poverty, drugs and gang violence.

Courtyard at activity centre for children.

Kim is especially moved by the wonderful services they support for Adult Day Care. We are welcomed by a clap-happy audience who is so excited about our visit. As we work the room greeting everyone, Mark with his blonde hair and blue eyes attracts one lady who not-so-modestly asks for a kiss on the cheek. Mark, the kind man he is, fulfills her wish and she is literally beaming with pleasure, clasping her cheek to treasure every piece of DNA left.

I think Curt filled in the rest of the day, so I will refrain from overlap...until next time.

AR

March 13 Perspective

2011-03-14T11:35:00.000-04:00

I hate long busrides. It wasn't 13 hours this time, but 9 when it was supposed to be 5 felt just as bad. My seat slowly steals my positive energy. Sleeping isn't recharging, and seems only to make me groggy and achy. We watch 2 movies, which helps, but the hour delay at the border finishes me off.

We arrive to Managua...the bus station is closed, and the streets seem dark and dangerous. Our hosts whisk us to a beautiful house/mansion/estate, where we find out the girls are staying. They are spoiled, it's an amazing place. Their host's daughter is awake to receive them, and she speaks great English and seems to be of similar age.
The boys are headed to a hotel. It seems like a nice place, but we laugh as we're sharing a room. 3 beds, in a regular sized room. It's fine for our purposes, but comical as the girls are in the lap of luxury.
We walk over to a sports bar and get some grease in our bellies. The conversation lags, as we're wiped. Tomorrow is a new day. We get horizontal, and look forward to starting our Nicaraguan adventures.
CGD

March 12 Perspective

2011-03-14T11:22:00.000-04:00

Last day in Costa Rica, and we get some time in the ocean!
We slowly gather all the pieces of of our trip (people, cars, water, snacks), and start the trek to Manuel Antonio Park. Apparently we're in for a day of lush scenery, exotic animals, and a near-perfect beach. We deserve it.
We weave through the mountains...all the way up, and all the way down to the ocean side. Stopping in Jaco (famous surf town), we grab some much needed food. I order my favourite breakfast, Huevos Rancheros.

We're treated to a song (romantic) as our food arrives. I'm in a happy place.

Through another few surf towns, and some flat farmland (we haven't seen much in Costa Rica), we arrive to Playa Bejuca; the location of Doug's vacation home. We're like kids in a candy store, playing in the surf and soaking in the rays. The beach is massive, and we can't see 10 people.

We retreat to the pool to enjoy some snacks and get some rest. We reflect with Manuel on the trip thus far, as Mark hammers out a blog. It's great compound, and Kim is excited, as she's returning with her husband in a few months to stay at Doug's place.

Evening is upon us and we rush to catch the sunset at Villa Caletas; perched on a cliff, overlooking the ocean, with a steep amphitheatre incorporated into the restaurant/bar. Tough to describe, but let's just say they must have some epic events here. Apparently you can watch the sunset and then stars, with a drink of your choice, with a pianist or classical group playing. Sounds terrible.

We enjoy a gourmet meal, and head for the cars in the rain. It's a long haul back to San Jose, and we're all bagged from the sun, surf and long week. BUT, we're going out to dance! It's another late night, and the music ranges from great local latin rhythms, to the terrible sounds of Reggaeton. I drive (DD) for the first time in 2 weeks, which is a rush, and aggresive driving is the norm here. Doug and Alicia are dancing machines, and Mark gets a late-night call with Jess. Kim opted for a night in to recharge, hopefully she get a few extra hours for us too. Tomorrow we're on the Tica Bus again...OIY. Nicaragua here we come!!
CGD

Costa Rican Perspective - Team Photos

2011-03-14T10:49:00.000-04:00

Costa Rican Perspective - Individual Photos

2011-03-14T10:45:00.001-04:00

March 11 Mark's Perspective

2011-03-12T17:03:00.000-05:00

I wake up, refreshed, feeling good. I have a shower and eat some fruit. As I finish up breakfast, Manual walks in, it is now after 8:00am and he is late.

“Did you hear the news?” “What news?”

8.9 earthquake in Japan causes a tsunami travelling across the Pacific. Manuel is part of Costa Rica’s Emergency National Commission and he was called at 5:00am to be in a meeting at 6:00am with the commission and the President of Costa Rica. It seems that everything is at a moderate level for the Costa Rica Pacific Coast and the emergency label is at green where it stays for most of the day.

I have a vocational visit set up to tour the construction of the Airport. Slight snag… the contact for that visit was also in the Emergency National Commission and will not be available to take me for a tour. Plan B: Manuel has me visit Grupos Jormar, a real estate development company. We review a large project that they are developing 5 hours from San Jose. I am taken to a construction site for an upper class home. The house is made of concrete and masonry block. There is an interesting method they have for pouring concrete floors that I have not seen in Canada, I will investigate when I return home.

The Team gathers for lunch at a Mexican food restaurant, Doug is still at a vocational visit, he will not be joining us for this meal.

Lucia Uribe picks Kim, Alicia and me up and we are brought to a building – built and maintained by the local Rotary Club for day-activities for seniors. We walk in the door and we are instantly a hit! A group of 30 seniors playing bingo stop and clap – we are a spectacle.

I get some kisses blown at me from a lady across a few tables. I pursue. Now she is puckering her lips and pointing to her cheek! I am so game. I grab her tight, smack my lips on her cheek and go to town. The room roars with laughter and she is now caressing her cheek like she will never wash it ever again; that made her day for sure and mine. Blue eyes and dirty blond hair goes a long way in Central America!

On our way to this area of the city, Lucia would stop the car at the end a few streets and tell us that we would not like to go down there. This part of town is very poor and dangerous, but there is some confidence in the middle of daylight. She continues to drive only on more busy roads.

We continue on from the seniors, across the road to another day-activity center, but for children. In Costa Rica, there are not enough teachers or schools for all the children so there are two shifts for kids in one day: morning class or afternoon class. This center is for the children to do homework, play games and generally stay out of trouble they may get into if they were running around the slums all day. Again, built and maintained by the Rotary Club.

We get to one classroom, perfect age group for curiosity of a camera. I snap as many pictures as I can. I begin to take pictures of kids and turning the camera to show them what they look like. I begin to show them how to use it and before I know it there are twenty little hands all over the camera. There are too many hands so I hold the strap and help them get organized enough to take pictures. The camera snaps a shot, we take a look at the picture and they roar in laughter and point at the kid that was lucky enough to get in the shot. It wasn’t until I was leaving the classroom when I realized that was the closest those kids have ever been to a camera. Humbling.

March 11 Perspective

2011-03-12T09:40:00.000-05:00

I don't have a vocational until the afternoon, so I enjoy a morning of blogging and espresso. Sleeping in down here doesn't happen, even when you go to bed late and have nothing to do. I am up at 7:10, feeling refreshed somehow. I wander around downtown Belen, which is some great 'me' time.
I am picked up at lunch, and meet up with the team (sans Doug) for some Mexican lunch. I have the salad, which is very similar to the Cajun Salad from our menu back home.

Alicia, Mark, and Kim head to Pavas for their vocational visit, and I'm heading to the only craft brewery in the area, as soon as my ride arrives. Manuel takes me on a tour of the national headquarters of one of their political parties. We discuss the differences in political structure of our countries, and the barriers to entry (into politics) for young professionals.
We're heading to the brewery, and Mark and Alicia are joining me!!

It's long drive, but well worth it. We meet Christopher and Stefano, and they give us a tour fit for kings. They only have 2 beers in the market right now, but they have 6 for us to try!! I am in a happy place. The guided tour is very informative for my colleagues I think.

It's a great industry to be a part of, and even at this remote brewery you can hear and feel the passion and excitement. We try a scottish ale, red ale, coffee porter, dry stout, and their blonde ale. Great beers, and a great afternoon. Maybe they could make the trek to Canada as guests at one of our beer festivals?

Stefano & Christopher

We crawl home through traffic, and collect Kim. We're off to meet some Rotaracts for drinks, snacks, and some social time. There's no craft beer at the bar we're at, but I enjoy a favourite of mine from back home...buffalo chicken sliders!
It's a relaxed night, and Jorge joins us...a new godfather! His brother gave birth to the first baby in his family. Santiago is his name.

Everyone heads for home, but Juan Carlos insists that we need at least one Sarpe (sar-pay). It means last call, and quite often they have a few. We stop at a bar closer to home, and enjoy a bucket of beers on a swing. Yep, they have swings that hang in front of the bar...pretty cool concept. I am lucky to have Juan Carlos as my host...he is funny, engaging, and very generous. I am two for two with billets.

Only a couple of hours to sleep, and then we have a day at the beach and national park.
CGD

Q & A

2011-03-12T03:14:00.002-05:00

My lovely wife, Jessica, has emailed me questions throughout the trip:

Q. How long are you at the same house?
A. One week per country, I think that in Nicaragua we change places once, El Salvador may change more often but we do not know right now.

Q. Are you staying with curt at the billets?
A. We all have had separate billets until tonight. Alicia and Doug will be staying at the same house tonight for ease of organization tomorrow.

Q. Is Costa Rica much different then Panama?
A. YES. When we arrived in Panama the first day of our trip, we where told we will recognize the differences of each country. Cultures, food, driving, you name it, it has a different twist. One thing we all noticed was that Panama has large upper and lower classes; Costa Rica has a more dominate middle class.

Q. What are some of the activities you have planned for this week?
A. Vocation visits today, Canadian Embassy, Visit a Rotary project for the elderly and another for children, tour downtown… much more but it is 2:00am and I have been up since 7:00am and this question is too hard for my state of mind, I can revisit.

Q. How was carnivale?
A. Simply one of the richest cultural experiences I have ever been a part of.

Q. How are your billets?
A. Panama was Nestor’s parents, although I feel like I was billeted by Nestor (he is the one that organized our visit to this country) because I was with him so much – great people, very friendly and warm.
Costa Rica is Manuel, also the organizer for our visit to the country. Very modest and selfless; he is about to turn 32 on Wednesday and he has accomplished more in his life time than most have is 64 years. He has given up his own bed for me in this historic building from the 1920’s, spewing with character.

Q. The weather?
A. Panama was hot and humid, we sweat in our dress shirts and blazers, but it is bearable. It rained maybe 3 to 5 times, never more than 3 minutes. Costa Rica is so close to perfect, there is no insulation, or windows for that matter, in many buildings. No rain yet that I have seen.

Q. The food?
A. Panama – Fresh fruit, delicious, lots of deep fried.
Costa Rica – Fresh, delicious.

Q. The language barrier?
A. Too easy in both Panama and Costa Rica; we only speak English. Our fear is that we are not learning enough Spanish for Nicaragua and El Salvador which will have less English speaking people.

Q. Wondering how tanned you are! LOL
A. Not very. Our itinerary is busy. Our last large amount of time outside was Carnivale last weekend, but that was mostly at night. Tomorrow we will be tourists and go to a beach and a rainforest; I will let you know after that.

Thanks for the questions Jess!

MC

March 10 Perspective

2011-03-11T12:49:00.000-05:00

It's hot on the pavement. First thing we're headed for a walking tour of downtown San Jose. Alicia is absent to do a Skype interview. Manuel's tour mixes buildings of cultural significance, great architecture, and a some wonderful street art. He's very modest; we stop outside of the house of congress just long enough that he can call a Congressman and get us inside for a private tour. We see the national church, national theatre, many parks, and a great area of the city that used to be where they made liquor. It has been restored and converted to a very hip area that houses dance and theatre companies, small marketing firms, and event facilities. Sounds like the distillery district in Toronto.

Did I mention it's hot, and we're in our blazers, as our lunch meeting is at a fancy social club. Our tour is intriguing, and even more-so because there is a teacher's protest today. The school's are closed, and we're sharing the downtown core with them.

We hear a great presentation at lunch from a Rotaract club about a green initiative they're pushing with other Rotaract clubs around the world. We are whisked away quickly to meet our afternoon hosts at the Costa Rican Art Museum. The collection on display is diverse and very intriguing. Once we are organized it is apparent that our afternoon plans (vocational visits) have a glitch. We are toured by Rotarian named Mario around his small town, and then up into the mountains overlooking the central valley. We enjoy a few hours of dialogue, drinks, and some great Lebanese tapas. We are all hoping that this string of bad luck ends, and we can get some vocational visits in before we leave Costa Rica. Afternoon turned to dusk, and then to night. The city lights up, and we soak in the view.

After our evening Rotary meeting, we are all headed for home. Lidia insists I come to the pub for a drink with her. My schedule is open in the morning, and it's only 9:30, so I'm off. The pub is small, maybe 60 seats, and has live music playing.

After passing on their selection (8) of beers (all blonde lagers), I settle for a whisky and water. I try chifrijo again (it's still good), and a fried pork dish as well. Lidia would be a regular at my pub; she loves her beer, is a great conversationalist, and seems to know just about everyone who comes in. Her friend Ruth is the bartender, and she is a natural. I hope she makes good tips, as it's clear she has found her calling.

Tomorrow is vocational visits, and a night with the Rotaract Clubs...
CGD

March 9 Perspective

2011-03-11T12:48:00.000-05:00

I'm missing my family today. My brother Jord and his wife Brittany are joining my girlfriend, Laura, today in Panorama for a ski holiday. I suffer from FOMO, so it's hard for me (fear of missing out). Our ride to the Poas volcano passed many farms, large and small, with very cute houses and out-buildings. Mom would love this, and so would Laura.

Arriving to the park, there is an ambulance in the parking lot. I think of my brother, Hugh, as he is a paramedic. I wish they were here to share this with me. I wish I was in Panorama drinking coffee and cooking all day (I try not to ski, and prefer to cook, read, and play guitar in my downtime).

Sulfur fills our noses as we enjoy a 3 km walk around the park, taking in the volcano and nearby lake.

We have a very quick lunch at a property owned by Lidia's family. (They also live next door to the apartment I'm staying at, and have been feeding me breakfast, and ensuring we have a meeting place in the morning.) She is very hospitable, and the place is excuisite. Part hobby farm, part family vacation home, part mini resort/retreat. Some of us swim, we kick around a soccer ball, and then we eat quickly to get to the children's hospital.

The traffic is terrible, and it's evident we'll be late again. We hear from the embassy, and they can take us for a quick meeting just before they close. The girls are sad to have missed the hospital, but they hope vocational time on Friday and maybe Saturday will allow for a visit. The embassy does not allow camera's, but they do have some great information on the countries in the area. I feel like I'm the only one asking questions, but it is very fascinating to me. Trade agreements, major portfolios of each country, world demands, barriers of trade, etc... Smart people work here.

We spend the balance of the afternoon at Lucia Uribe's house (she and her husband are both Rotarians), listening to some great success stories dealing with education. Rotary is involved in many, but there is a strong presence from the church, and volunteers as well. kim and Alicia will get a chance to visit a school and retirement activity centre in a poor neighbourhood on Friday. The school specializes in trades, and ensuring kids will find a job when they complete their studies.

Our night Rotary meeting is warm and inviting, and it is evident that they are a very close-knit group. I am inspired to play some songs before dinner, and we are actually bombarded with questions at the conclusion of our presentation. A great experience, and an exhausting day.

Today was the first day that we got some exercise, and ate healthy (no deep fried food). We all agree that we're feeling refreshed.

My roomates are waiting for me, and we sit around the kitchen table with a rum discussing the differences in dating, marriage, family, and child rearing. Maybe I'll return to play music at someone's wedding? This song is suggested.

CGD

Panama Rotary Clubs

2011-03-11T11:01:00.000-05:00

These are the clubs we presented to in Panama. A photo of the current president, with the club banner, to help us remember everyone.

Hermando

Mercedes

Tayra

Arlene

Moises

Victor

Unfortunately, I missed the Eldorado meeting to be at a vocational visit, and we did not get a photo.
CGD

The grace of Dugmoodee

2011-03-11T10:46:00.000-05:00

Manuel explains that the Spanish found many perfectly formed spherical 'stones' around the valley. They could not explain how the proportions were so accurate. We stop for a photo with one inside a very neat architectural room.

The ball doesn't seem too high, so I suggest maybe someone should get on top of it for a photo. The security guard is watching though...and dress pants and shoes don't lend themselves to jumping.

None of this is phasing Doug. He's doing it. And it's graceful, like a Rhino in a phonebooth.

Mission accomplished. With a few laughs. I think Doug might be sore tomorrow morning.
Thank you for your sense of adventure Doug. I doubt the security guard has seen anything like it before. He was unsure of how to handle us.

March 8 Perspective

2011-03-10T01:49:00.002-05:00

Today did not go according to plan, which frustrated our host, Manuel. We enjoyed the slower pace as we got to see a lot of the city.

The morning was supposed to be with a Costa Rican agency of commerce and trade, but they canceled. We toured their national church, and got the great background story.

Some local coffee, and we were off to lunch. A few Rotarians from a Monday club hosted us at a very posh club downtown. We were treated to some great information on Micro-lending, which opened a wonderful discussion around the table. Our 3 Rotarian hosts were very impressive…successful, passionate, caring individuals who seem to be leading some great programs to help the region. Education for people with special needs, investment in women in business, setting up banks and micro-lending in small communities…These programs allow for increase in human capital, while ensuring that there are no handouts; beneficiaries can remain proud as they repay their loans. Kiva is an online version of micro—lending…something I am even more proud to be involved in.

After being rescheduled by the Canadian Embassy, we head towards the UN University for Peace, where Alicia is applying! We are all excited, but after the traffic slows us, it is apparent we won’t make it for our appointment, so we turn back for the embassy. Another call from the embassy, and we’re rescheduled again for later in the week. We go to the mall, replace the pants that shrank, and settle in for a beer. I am very happy to find that they have a dark beer. Even more impressive is that it is made locally, and is very hoppy. My palette is in a happy place. The downside is that none of the servers have any idea what the beers or local brewery are called. Furthermore, they think I am odd for drinking an amber, bitter beer. Manuel is on the hunt to see how close the brewery is.

Our first Rotary meeting is at a wonderful French restaurant called Le Chandelier. We arrive early and discuss Real Estate development and Event planning with their president, Jorge. He orders us a little appetizer to tide us over to the meeting. I get goose bumps when the small snack arrives. There is a trend I am noticing:

Our first presentation in 5 days goes well, and we are peppered with questions about the GSE program after the meeting by the Rotaract club who were guests at the meeting. Rotaract is alive and well down here, and it is great to see so many young people doing good for their communities and country. Alicia and Mark vow to push the program when they return home (Kim and I are too old to be Rotaracts).

Doug’s daughter’s Costa Rican boyfriend, Oscar, arrives to take us to our homes. I add pictures to Mark’s blog, and get another good night’s sleep. I hope tomorrow goes according to schedule, as it is clear that our changes today were out of Manuel’s hands.

They have left Friday afternoon open in our schedules so that we can plan our own vocational (or other) visits. At dinner last night, Kim is excited to learn that Juan Carlos’s girlfriend is also a teacher. Not a regular teacher he explains…she works with children who have special needs. Fate? I think Kim has her vocational visit planned.

CGD

March 6 & 7 Perspective

2011-03-10T00:29:00.000-05:00

Carnival is such an epic cultural event, and we are getting a heavy dose so we can understand just how passionate the country is. I don't know of anything in Canada that would compare. Think about a cross between:
   A fall fair in a small town
   An outdoor concert at a large venue
   Canada Day fireworks
   Summer long weekend party atmosphere
   A cultural demonstration of costume, dance and music

After a lazy day of eating, blogging, and a great visit at Juan's cousin's home, we are off to get one last taste of Carnival before we head across the border. The costumes and dancing are truly amazing, and we are all having a great time soaking it in. I am getting some great ideas for the beer festivals I host back home. There is something amazing about a culture with a rich and diverse heritage, and the means in which they embrace and share it with we lucky foreigners. Looking around the private party we're in, where all the costumes and dancing occur, there are not many non-participants. We are there though, with a front row seat (again), smiles permanently smashed to our faces, and camera's clicking like crazy. I hope I will get to see something like this again. It is truly amazing.

Car ride, truck stop food, cheap hotel room, and we're now boarding the bus at 3am.

What we understand now, from the Panamanians we’ve met, is that taking the bus from Santiago to San Jose is a comedic decision. It was by far the most draining experience of the trip so far.

We arrive to San Jose, not wanting to be social, or even awake for that matter. Our co-ordinator, Manuel, arrives, and he is gracious and warm, which seems to be the calling card for Central American Rotarians. We have a snack, and freshen up at the past District Govenor’s house, and potentially the most recognized and decorated Rotarian in Central America, Francisco Lopez.

We review our itinerary, and we’re off to our billets houses. Mark is staying with Manuel in downtown San Jose. Kim, Doug and I are about 30 minutes west in a suburban area. Alicia, as is the trend, is more than an hour away from the rest of us, in the east end of the city.

My host is a Rotaract named Juan Carlos, and we are in a cozy 3 bedroom apartment. His roommates, Luis Carlos and Annibel are outgoing, and it is easy to see that they have been friends for a long time. After a shower (very much needed), Juan Carlos and Luis Carlos take Kim and I out for dinner. Kim enjoys some authentic fajitas, and I try a local dish at the boys suggestion, Chifrijo…it’s hearty, fairly healthy, and is a perfect fit after the wild 24 hours that preceded.

Home, guitar, bed. While we were on the bus it felt like we might never sleep comfortably again, so I seize the opportunity… I sleep with intensity and ferocity.

Costa Rican Adventures begin tomorrow.

CGD

Good Bye Panama

2011-03-09T01:33:00.000-05:00

In the morning I woke to church bells from across the road and Spanish singing hymns, a landmark to what day of the week it is. The drivers are having breakfast and I had a fantastic sleep, much better than the morning before.
Juan, Eyda and the team arrive for breakfast. Juan insists that Curt and I have a maid that is an amazing cook and we are all sitting in the apartment’s dining room to experience the food. Yes, she certainly is a great cook; delicious.

We move on to Juan’s cousins house a few doors down from our apartment. Curt is playing the guitar, Kim and Alicia have their own hammocks, Doug and I are sitting and chatting with Juan, Eyda. This is relaxing as it has been for the last day, contrast to our loaded week earlier.

We go back to the estate and relax some more; Curt hammers out some blogs. Juan has some guests, and as usual the social butterfly is running late...we need to get moving, we are late for our last night of Carnivale. The drivers Dorion and Jose Luis are waiting outside. They jump at the opportunity to take one last picture with us. Curt said afterward that Dorion was getting emotional. It seems other people that he chauffeurs do not give the same Canadian treatment and inclusion that we gave them. Juan makes it out of the house finally and we are off.

We start driving to Ocu. Apparently Ocu it is the best place to see the original Panamanian culture of dancing and the fine handmade dresses. On the way we got lost. Juan: “Pull over ask ask them. Tell them that I am Juan Varela, they will tell us where to go.”

We finally make it to Ocu with a few wrong turns, park and the SUV’s amongst the trash and street dogs. We walk up a well-lit alley; dancing, chanting and drums are happening in the back. Traditional dresses arrive in droves. There is a formal order to the dance and we all are not 100% certain to how it works. Juan has a way of parting a crowd and he finds us a spot at the front. All members of the family are part of this tradition and we stand wondering why this amazing dance is happening in there and the majority of the town is outside getting drunk.

We continue on. Some street gambling catches Curt and Alicia’s eye. Eyda I think is interested and she serves as a translator.

Kim spots a pick pocketer, he was hovering over Juan earlier. Curt sees a need to tell Juan, with Juan’s reply “I know, and I told him to get lost before he gets hurt!” I wondered who he was expecting was going to hurt this guy? Curt? Me? Then I realized Dorion and Jose Luise are big guys and likely were hired to do more than just drive.

It is a relaxed atmosphere on the streets and I begin to think the best of the night is behind us…

We walk to a building that looks like castle ruins and we try to get in: $10 cover and no shorts. Since Juan’s company is the main endorser of the place, he convinces then to let us in and we change into pants.

The dancing begins, it is amazing, the dresses are beautiful, the jewelry is stunning and the children are adorable. The best part of our night has just begun.

It was getting late and we still have to drive 2 hours to catch a bus in Santiago. We arrive at the bus shelter. Everyone is tired except Doug and me; surprisingly I have good energy. We all eat and get a hotel room for $40. Kim takes a shower and we all freshen up. Curt, Alicia and Kim fall asleep for 15 minutes, their head didn’t even hit the pillow! Half hour in the hotel and we leave for the bus. It is 2:00am now.

We wait in a bus shelter, Alicia fall asleep on the bench, curt plays the guitar, and I climb the bus shelter… I realize I miss rock climbing!

Bus is late; we board after 3:00am.

We drive a few hours through the night, I think I may have slept for a few hours. It was odd on the bus – when asleep you feel half awake, when you are awake you feel half asleep: uncomfortable.

We reach the boarder and all get off and wait on the curb because the boarder does not open for another hour. We are confused to how this makes sense? Why are we here now?

We all take our luggage off the bus and bring it to a small room with two tables… all 50 passengers. We are uneasy because we do not know what is happening. Alicia pulls her pink bag into the room; a cockroach runs under Alicia’s bag, I can see her unease. I am afraid that I will be separated with my luggage, we all are!

Two young Mexican guys are called into the back room, with black curtains…I would not want to be them. It begins with Alicia. They take her bag, place it on a table and open it. Everyone in the room is watching the border police search through her stuff. I think she packed everything so tightly that she got off easy. Doug is searched and the guy wants a Rotary banner. I was searched last, it was quick and easy. The guy commented on my Seco, and then I moved on. We line up at Panama Migration, then walk across the border 250m to the bus, which is now in Costa Rica. We get our bags searched again by Costa Rican Immigration, but we are trained now, and know what to expect. On the bus again, glad that the border is behind us…a truly draining experience.

On the bus (and border) for more than 8 hours before we get a stop for food. I can feel my blood sugar bottoming out and I struggle to eat. I know my body needs something, and the Gatorade helps. Another 4 hours and we’re arriving into San Jose. Finally. The road between Santiago, Panama and San Jose, Costa Rica is called the Highway of Hell. We all agree.

Panama Perspective - Individual Photos

2011-03-06T17:14:00.036-05:00

Phonecalls and emails home are few and far between. We are experiencing a lot, and it is in our nature to share with someone. We talk frequently of missing partners, and family, and the other people we regularly share with, in our own lives. In the absence of our regular social networks, we have each other. A team that didn’t know one another 7 months ago is becoming more like family every day. We tease and fight like siblings, and enjoy the camaraderie of witnessing something amazing.

Panama Perspective - Team Photos

2011-03-06T16:50:00.002-05:00

Just to clarify:
1. We are not on holiday
2. Everyone is exhausted from over stimulation, and it is evident whenever we sit down
3. Alicia is now Alice
4. Doug is now Dugmoodee
5. Blogging is allowing us to capture all the amazing things that happen day to day. A historical record of sorts.

Here are some team photos of our time in Panama:

March 5 Night Perspective

2011-03-06T16:14:00.000-05:00

We enjoy a brief visit to Perita to see the Carnival during the day. There are huge trucks spraying everyone with water, lots of fireworks (very safe...), and the floats/bands relentlessly play on.

After a lunch with some Rotarians who work with the UN, we load up into the SUVs and head towards the big Carnival in Las Tablas.
We meet Nestor at his parent's weekend home, just outside of Las Tablas. We enjoy some rum and ceviche on the porch, and the girls get the hammock time they have been desiring. Time with Juan is busy, but carries a certain component of relaxed pace. The power comes and goes a few times, as towns in the area are all running carnival.

At 9 we go into the small town (Santo Domingo) to experience "how Carnival used to be". It is intimate like our experience last night, but definitely busier. A round of beers (10) costs $6.50, and 'street meat' curly sausages are $0.50. Life is grand. It's a nice carnival, and the bands (while not different than last night) are impressive up close.

Beers are done and we are headed to Las Tablas. We park on the outskirts of the carnival, and start our walk into the town centre. Things are different. People are drunk, and there are a lot of them. We are told to expect the first queen at 11ish, and the second at 1ish. Juan is on his cellphone, trying to keep everyone close, and making some plans for us. Eduardo appears, our UN/Rotary lunch guest from earlier in the day, and we are taken up to the condo they have. It's THE perfect location. Top floor (4th), of the tallest building, overlooking the square. We are experiencing things from the best vantage points. Truly VIP treatment.

The floats are coming. The band is bigger. There are people flooding into the square from all sides, and it's getting frantic.

We try to go down to street level, but it's craziness. Within minutes our group is separated, and Alicia is gone. We find her 15 minutes later back at the apartment. It's a wild event, and it's only getting busier as the clock strikes midnight.

It's a long way home, and Juan calls the chaufeurs to get us moving in the homeward direction. Blink, we all fall asleep and arrive to the estate in what seems like minutes. A once in a lifetime event, from a near-perfect vantage point. Spoiled are we. Last day in Panama tomorrow...Costa Rica here we come!

CGD

March 5 Day Perspective

2011-03-06T14:10:00.002-05:00

A ship's air-horn goes off. It's 7 am. My body vibrates in bed and my eyes snap open. Maybe they have an alarm clock that wakes up the whole town?

Mark and I can't sleep after the shock, so we decide a jog is in order. It's only a kilometer back to the Estate, and the morning temperature is appropriate. Everyone is still asleep when we arrive, so we wait until Doug joins us to get the schedule for the day. The girls wake and join us for our run back to our house. They're doing a longer loop, but Mark and I are happy with our short run. A cold shower, big breakfast, and we're outside again, this time to tour the estate.

Andrea, our guide, speaks great English, and shares the guide explanations with Juan, who adds historical flavour.

800 acres of sugar cane are harvested in a 3 month period. The leaves and pulp are burned to fire the boiler, providing 70% of the boiler fuel, which is a great reuse of a waste product.

The sugar water/syrup is squeezed out, and is boiled. It then ferments and becomes 8% alcohol. They distill it to 72%. The bi-products are used as fuel and fertilizer, a very efficient operation. If they're making Seco Herrerano, there is no aging, so they cut it with water to make a 35% beverage.

If they're making rum, they put it in American oak barrels, and age it. The oak pulls out the impurities, increasing the alcohol %, and adds some very nice (warm) flavours.

There are 15 large, very beautiful storage warehouses. They have plans for a gift shop, restaurant, and tasting area between some of the buildings. The Estate is starting to become a tourist destination, and they want to offer the best educational & hospitality experience. The Ron Abuelo is available in 5, 7 and 12 year ages. They also offer a Centuria, which is a blend of the aged rum they didn't use, ranging from 35 to 50 years.

The bottling and packaging is done at the plant in town where Mark and I are staying.

We have tried the 5, 7, and 12 year at certain points on our trip, and are hoping to taste the Centuria as well. At $125+ per bottle, it isn't easily available here.

Carnival is tonight...

CGD

March 4 Perspective

2011-03-05T16:28:00.002-05:00

We say our goodbyes to Panama City and our host families after Dim Sum breakfast, and we're off to get Alicia from her hosts, Andy and Rosalyn Guillen. Their home is perched on top of a hill and hour outside of the city. It is a walled compound with horses, many guard dogs, and a swimming pool. It was the feel of a drug cartel ranch I've seen in movies. There is some sadness in the car as we leave, as Alicia had a great experience getting to know them.

We had been informed that Carnival is such a big event, that Rotary clubs would not host us on the weekend, as basicallyt the whole country has plans. Luckily for us, we are in the company of Juan Varela, grandson to the founder of Varela Brothers, the largest producer and distributor of Rum in Panama. We are his guests for the entire weekend, on his estate 4 hours outside of the city.

We travel in 2 SUVs with chauffeur's, stopping for a lunch that includes blood sausage (very good), and Piquillos, a small semi-spicy pepper stuff with scallops in a cream sauce. We arrive to the estate, which is expansive and beautiful. More details will come in day 6, as we have a full tour scheduled. A walk along the sugar cane fields, a quiet dinner, and there is a calmness that makes us think maybe we'll get to bed early.

We were WRONG. Juan gets a burst of energy, and we all pile into the SUVs and head back to the closest town with some Carnival. Kim went for a nap after dinner, and she's unwakeable. We're off without her. What's in store for us? Will we get soaked, stampeded, robbed? Upon arriving Juan explains that Friday is just a warm-up night, and the town we're in hosts a smaller Carnival. The further from the city, the larger the Carnival, so it seems.

There are two parallel streets, with a large square that joins them in the middle. We join some of Juan's family on the side of the square, and the magic begins. Tonight the two queens from last year will be on display, and tomorrow they will pass their crowns to the new queens (upper and lower street). The procession begins. A few people. A tractor pulling a decorated float. The upper queen from 2010 is dancing on the float in an exotic, hand-made outfit. There are 3 young girls dancing in matching outfits as well. Another tractor. This one pulls a trailer full of musicians...horns and percussion hammer out simple, but very rhythmic songs. A thick, young crowd follows closely behind, dancing and shouting. We are starting to understand. It's exciting to watch.

We are on the move, walking around to check out the food and vendors. We stumble upon the lower queen, and her procession starts. We watch from up close as they pass...another band, another decorated float...and fall in line with the crowd behind the band. We get looks from the kids, as we're not a common site for Friday nights.

As we arrive to the square, we realize the upper queen's procession has looped around and is now on the correct street. Both bands are playing into the square, almost as if to see who can be louder. Fireworks are being lit from cardboard boxes, and it's feeling magical. We're all grinning from ear to ear, and turn to wave to our host, who we had left on the balcony for our walk. He is there, sitting beside his wife, Ada, and he is sleeping. SLEEPING!! There are loud fireworks, a couple thousand yelling and dancing people, and two very noisy bands, and he is TKO with a front row seat. Amazing.

The bands die down and the fireworks are getting better. The lack of safety features is a little frightening, but I assure you that the fireworks we witnessed on 'warm-up' night in this poor village would rival something you'd see on Canada Day in a major city. Shock and amazement plastered on our faces, we are heading home. Tonight will go on, but it seems many are saving up for tomorrow...I can't imagine how crazy it will be.

Mark and I are not staying with Doug and the girls this weekend on the estate. We are 5 minutes away in a large 3 bedroom apartment that is part of the bottling facility they own in the town. It's 1am, but Mark blogs on the porch for an hour, and I call my girlfriend Laura to check in for the first time.

We are fortunate that Juan has taken us in, and is sharing not only his amazing family estate with us, but also ensuring we see this amazing cultural event from a front row seat. He is a kind man, who has a rich knowledge of the culture and history of Panama. He can eat and talk more than anyone I've ever met, and he likes to do both at once! He speaks in a manner that reminds me of Marlon Brando's Godfather character Don Vito Corleone, which makes it that much more enjoyable.

Soon it will be Carnival!

CGD

Our stay at Hacienda San Isidro in Pese, Panama

2011-03-05T14:39:00.001-05:00

Hola everyone!!

Currently, we are staying with Juan Antonio Varela at his estate in Pese, Panama. For 102 years the Varela family has made Pese their home and on their estate they produce rum and the national drink of Panama, Seco. Varela distilleries have 90% of the market in Panama!

Today we toured the rum factory before heading into a small town to taste the rum at one of the local carnivals. Tonight we are heading to a carnival...things are gonna get crazy!

Bye for now....KT

March 3 Perspective

2011-03-05T14:33:00.000-05:00

Fate: an event (or a course of events) that will inevitably happen in the future

Central American Fate: Arriving to a guided tour of the presidential palace, only to find that the guide speaks only Spanish. The only other guest, Ibis, for the tour happens to speak very good English, and is able to translate.

Rotary Fate: After a brief discussion with Ibis, we learn that he received Rotary scholarships to study medicine abroad. A great small world feeling as we enter the Presidential Palace.

The tour is informative, and the architecture spans many styles and influences. The entrance foyer is also home to several herons, who seem at ease with our presence.

Ibis recommends a tour of Ministry of Foreign Affairs before we head to our next Rotary meeting at lunch. It is an expansive building on the ocean, with a huge covered courtyard, and a preserved board-room that was home to the original Bolivarian meetings.

The girls’ post-lunch vocational visits fall through, and I suggest a swim and relaxing afternoon by the pool at my host Victor’s condo. Everyone agrees, and we cancel the walk around colonial town (the location of presidential palace and foreign affairs). It has been a whirlwind of activities since we arrived. Everyone fades quickly whenever we sit down, so an afternoon of rest is welcomed. Mark and Doug jump at an opportunity to see the future site of a eco-community, and I stay to host the girls by the pool. My heart is heavy, as I fear that I am missing an amazing opportunity. The swim is refreshing, as is the reflective dialogue poolside.

Nestor arrives, and the team is headed to a press conference before our last Rotary meeting in Panama. I am left behind, as I have a vocational visit. Victor drops me a Grill 50, a large sports bar owned by a friend of his. I get a tour from the marketing manager, Daisy, who speaks a little English. She leaves me to enjoy some food, I try patacones, and I strike up a conversation with the customer service manager, Fernando, whose English is even better. The owner, Mario, arrives with his wife, Caroline (Karoleen), and we chat about inventory control, staff concerns, and then the carnival warnings start: we can expect an amazing time that will resemble a day-long mosh pit with water, liquor, live music, and a battle between upper and lower streets. Although the restaurant is far bigger than my little pub, it is refreshing to hear from someone who is entrenched in the industry.

Victor arrives, and we head for home. He offers to take me to the brew-pub, and I jump at the chance. Istmo Brew Pub is not a classy place, but they offer 4 beers that aren't lagers, all made on premises in their small tanks. I enjoy a malty (amber) wheat beer, and treat Victor to a stout. They even offer a sausage platter, which I can't pass up.

A hugely successful last night in Panama City! I pack a little, and am nervous and excited for Carnival this weekend.

Day Six of the Hostages

2011-03-05T10:00:00.000-05:00

Can't believe it has been 6 days - feels like 6 weeks ! We have packed so much into our trip so far that we are measuring the time in "dog days ".

As Team Lider, I am pleased to report that "The Team" is a pleasure to be with and representing Rotary and Canada with pride. They have taken their roles seriously and with great enthusiasm. The blog is evidence of this (except for Alicia's (Alice) grammatical errors).

Our departure from Panama City on Friday morning culminated in a dim sum Chinese breakfast with our Host families and a stop to pick Alicia up at her Estate in the Country .

I was fortunate to spend the week with Mercedes and Mario Typaldos and their two sons, Mario and Juan Andreas who were most gracious as hosts.

Below is a picture of the view from their very large mid town Panama City condo overlooking New and Old Panama. I learned a great deal about Panama's history from them as both of their families played key roles in that regard. Merecedes' Grandfather was a Past President of the Country of Panama and Mario's Great-Grandfather founded the first English Speaking Newspaper and it remained in the family for several generations.

Among many things, we have learned that Pamana is a very Cosmopolitan Country with a storied past that is very much related to the real estate adage - location, location, location! The discovery by Balboa that the Pacific Ocean was only 80 kilometers from the Atlantic and the related trials and tribulations of the building of the Canal have factored prominently in its Current Economic State ; which by all accounts appears to be that of a leading Central American Economic force that is ahead of its Counterparts and well positioned to grow in the future.

Having said that , it is not without its growing pains as some feel it is growing too fast and there exists a real dichotomy between the "haves" and the "have nots."

However, one thing is readily evident - once a year there exists an Event that brings the entire Country together; that is "CARNIVALE". Rich and Poor , everyone is the same as the entire Country closes to celebrate . And now it is time for this Team to dress down and hit the Streets to experience the festivities of this National Event.

Respectfully submitted,

Doug Moody Team Lider

Green on the Mountain

2011-03-05T09:47:00.000-05:00

After our presentation for the original Rotary Club of Panama (presentation 5 of 6 in the first 4 days) Doug, Curt and I (Mark) were approached by a man named Henry, an ex-UN employee originally from Sweden. Henry is a younger looking Rotarian, blond hair and tanned skin with a zest for life far more energetic than anyone I have seen in a long time. He begins to explain a project that he is in the beginning stages of starting.

Doug, Curt and I are glued to every word that leaves his mouth. He has large ambitions to create an eco-friend community on a mountain he purchased 20 minutes outside of panama near the village of Vera Cruz, population 30,000. He explains that Panama Pacifica is a new development that is converting a large abandoned US military base that was used during the US control of the canal, creating thousands of residential and commercial units nearby his property; a new and potential strong support for the proposed eco community.

Henry has grand ideas for the project and wants to share more; his enthusiasm for the idea is infectious. We are in Panama for only one more afternoon and are scrambling to fit a visit to the mountain in. “I have a truck and only have room for two more,” Henry says. Sorry Doug, Curt and I have dibs on this one.

Still scrambling to make this work, we head to Victor’s house (Curt’s billet) between appointments so we can swim. Henry calls us; he is waiting outside to take us to the mountain. Tables have turned, sorry Curt, you have to stay and entertain, Doug and I have got this one.

We drive through the street and already we notice the increase in traffic in preparation for carnival in a few days. We cross the ‘Bridge of Americas’ and take a left at the big guitar billboard. We drive through the streets of Vera Cruz, it is the first time Doug and I have seen anything outside of the city limits; much different. Students crowd the streets as they walk home from school, you can tell the demographics in family income are lower for this town. Henry explains that this town does not have a bank machine or a bank. The typical man is paid cash at the end of the week and it is likely that the family will not see or know all the money that was made before it is spent. One of the many things Henry would like to do is install a bank machine in the town to facilitate savings and proper sharing of money to the families. He lives here. He has chosen to live in this very poor community.

We turn on a bumpy road and the truck starts an accent. We reach a gate, henry unlocks it and mentions “the next section is very bumpy, it would be best if you stand in the box of the truck; that would be most comfortable.” Doug opted to stay in the cab as I jump gleefully in the box, standing and holding onto the back rack… this is my kind of travel; fresh air, unobstructed view, sense of adventure.

Now is the real ascent; the road is upwards of 35 degrees I would say and averaging 25 degrees. I am enjoying myself and slowly I see the best view of the Canal, Pacific Ocean and Panama City that exists. The ocean has tens of ships waiting to reach the Canal. As I duck for trees, I look in the window of the truck, Doug is bouncing so high from the bumps he hits his head many times and can’t stay in the seat. We reach the top after 15 minutes of the truck struggling to climb. The glorious view is short lived as we need to get back to the city for a press conference. For the descent, Doug joins me standing in the box without hesitation.

In the car ride back to the city, Doug and I interview Henry and I record a video. I will present the video and the idea as a possible international project for the Rotary Clubs back in Canada. It is an interesting concept and Henry has a wealth of knowledge on the subject. Ideas include eco-friendly lifestyles, affordable living, community involvement, an aim for multiple demographics and an international community. Possibly the most driven notion is for this community is to nurture idea sharing and facilitate the spirit of young professionals and their curiosity in living green.

MC

Panamania!

2011-03-03T23:01:00.002-05:00

Buenos noches! I know we have an international audience that can critique not only our poor Spanish but also our English! So please be kind to us traveling Canadians...our only teacher on the trip has yet to find an opportunity to blog and edit for us...we all do our part on this team (some only in theory...oh I tease).

So far, Doug has agreed to finance a business initiative of Kim and I´s and we are actively seeking out any other business partners who are interested. Mark is going to move all our big stuff and design our buildings. Curt was on a vocational exchange while we had this brainstorming session over some peanuts, martinis, beer and wine. Luckily, some people are brave enough to question our apparent drinking problem and hopefully will be able to dispel any potential rumours of Canadians being alcoholics. As Kim explained it, the first few weeks of warm weather inspire thoughts of summer which usually is accompanied by some key beverages. However, we are actually experiencing lots of learning and not on vacation!

First night en route to our presentation along the boardwalk of Panama City.

Ok some interesting facts and observations:
-educators, check your geographical history books and make sure that you include how Panama has influenced the climate and biodiversity of the world given it´s location;
-law enforcement, here stop signs are actually Stoptional and you can actually do this without paying a hefty fine! In fact, there really aren´t many rules it seems and is more like an act of survival on the roads - Juan, I hate to tell you but Doug´s blood pressure was rising by the minute as you passionately explained the history of the country while reversing into rush hour traffic the wrong way;
-climate, Panamanians think that Costa Rica is cold;
-the proud maple leaf, I made a Rotarian´s day today, who has been a member for over 50 years by trading our Canadian district pin with him...sadly I must say, I tried to offer the Englehart pin instead (when I first thought we didn´t have any to share) and his face actually sunk in disappointment that he would not have the maple leaf! Doug saved the day though....
-marriage, apparently not being married means you are single, so at the club today Curt and I had the honour of being auctioned off to the crowd...however we were wearing the clueless nodding smiles while people laughed at our expense until it was translated for us - I suppose the most embarrassing part was no one lined up afterwords with any offers!
-cats, moose (my cat) does not receive grand reviews since cats really aren´t treasured pets here...they might actually think I am crazy, but I suppose that´s not far off from our stereotype of cat ladies...however, dogs are a big hit, especially large dogs like Mark´s;

Some unique experiences:

IAVE with Elvis and Juan Carlos, both volunteers of the organization.

-vocational visits: IAVE (volunteer membership that acts as a platform for coordination of volunteering worldwide, supported in Canada through Volunteer Canada; FANLYC, centre for children who have cancer or leukemia as a support for families while children receive treatment; Nutre Hogar, a nutritional centre for chilren ages 0-5 who suffer from severe malnutrition and developmental challenges as a result; and many contacts for organizations to maintain contact with;

FANLYC with a volunteer (translator too), Volunteer Coordinator and Rotarian Vielka.

One of the children receiving treatment at the centre.

Nutre Hogar with Executive Director Vanessa and Team Lider Doooug Moooody.

Alejandro, resident at the centre.

-funerals, a part from it being absolutely apparent that I did not belong in the church due to my pale colour and tourist-like gazes, I had the opportunity of attending a funeral;
-clothing, since we arrived with no luggage for the first night, I got to wear Panamanian panties (ok no, there aren´t really any different but imagine greeting your host and having to ask for underwear!)
-time, the polls are not conclusive, but it seems that being fashionably late is not only accepted but is the norm here....so yes family and friends, I do need to move to Latin America to get the acceptance I deserve;
-baseball, I have only seen one diamond so far but I can see why it´s a popular sport here...I could even be a homerun hitter with the length of the field (Panamanians, please, let me have my moment and don´t correct me on this)!

Local baseball diamond in La Pita, my host's town.

-names, I no longer go by Alicia, it is now Alice. In fact, I was even told to ask my parents - why Alicia and not just Alice? Doug, also has an interesting pronouciation of his name...like a Doo-ug Moooody...I will have to get a clip of Curt saying it to really get the effect of it, but he now is refered to like this and always including his last name;
-Andy, he is my host and really has become a team member accompanying me to everything given the driving distance between his house in the countryside and the city. I think actually that my team would like to replace me with him! He really deserves MVP thus far and is hosting a quick sendoff for us tomorrow morning before we head for the Carnival - Joan, really Doug and Andy are one in the same and a dangerous pair together when trying to accomplish any serious task;

Andres, my host riding. I was on Zafran.

My home temporarily.

Pool side.

The crew on our send-off, Rosaline (Andy's wife is the photographer).

Some personal updates for people who know me well:
-I have yet to lose anything of any great value;
-I have been told that I am polite and tidy, yes TIDY in my room!
-I have not wandered off or spoken to too many strangers, however, I did get to dress up in an officers uniform partially while I waited for the group to arrive at the Canal;

-I have managed to be on time for everything (even early), including morning breakfast!

Last but not least, I miss you all but this will absolutely be a life-changing experience and I have met fabulous people so far who have a sense of humour, humility and generousity. I am excited to see what tomorrow brings! Ciao for now! AR

Mar 2 Perspective

2011-03-03T00:49:00.002-05:00

Alarm goes. Mouth dry. First movements are slow to test for depth and severity of hangover. I congratulate myself on decisions to drink rum straight (mix = sugar = trouble) and for the two waters before bed. I am symptom free, save for some exhaustion.

We are heading to the Panama Canal this morning. We get a guided tour (not available to general public) of the construction of the new canal, which makes you truly appreciate anyone who can get involved with projects of large magnitude and lengthy timelines.

We weave back through the city to the other side of the canal to tour the existing locks, which includes a private tour of the middle of the locks (also off limits to gp). The sun is beating down on us, and I'm wearing pants and a blazer. Something isn't right. Water is fuel as we wait for a lunch-break that might never come. Kim and I sneak some Doritos from the snack bar...I think my appetite is coming back.

Lunch finally arrives, and we're back to the patio with the amazing view. Fried squid for me (it's tough like overcooked scallops), while Mark and Dougmoody go for the deep fried fish (whole fish!). I have an insatiable thirst still, maybe Panamanian water cannot quench it?

Biomuseum. Frank Ghery. Canadian. Architect. Amazing.
This may prove to be the highlight of the trip years from now.

scale model

construction site...exterior getting close

We present to Victor's club (my host), and then we head home for a quiet night in. We chat about education, small business, the role of work in life, farming, ecotourism....and suddenly it's past Ireallyneedeighthoursofsleep o'clock, and so I start blogging again.

Tomorrow will be long (I have another night placement), and it's our last full day in Panama City!

C

NOTE - Maybe someone else will post a blog soon...my team has really been letting me down (sorry, sarcasm again...)

A little bit of Panama

2011-03-03T00:40:00.001-05:00

What we did today (March 2nd):

Today our group slowed the pace and enjoyed the tourism of Panama together. The Rotary Club of Panama, established 1919, was our hosts on our trip to the Panama Canal, the Causeway and the Biomuseo (Bio musuem). Joining us on our trip was Ana Luisa Sepulveda. Ana was adimate that we learn as much spanish with her asking "so what was your favourite part of the Canal? In spanish please... Where are you from? In spanish please..." Ana is a guest Rotarian from Chile and she owns a business called Innovateg; she is in Panama as a consultant for building tourism companies.

Curt, Doug, Kim and I (Mark) climb into a van and we are off to see the Canal; we will meet Alcia there. When we arrive, we have a Civil Engineer meet us at the gate. He takes us for a drive on a construction road, passing rock trucks and massive excavations for the new canal. We are taken to the top of a hill with an exclusive view of the Canal locks. We realize that no tourists are aloud where we are. We are giving an informative talk on the history and future of the Canal while enjoying our private view.

We then drive to the locks themselves. We are greeted by a guide and we approach the lock to view the ships with other tourists. But wait, he has a key! He opens a gate in the fence and says "come with me, just dont get too close to the edge, I will show you why."

He leads us across the the lock gates and we dodge the train 'mules' that pull the ships through the locks. Doug crosses the lock gate with a death grip on the railing as Kim and I chat and casually walk across with an 80 ft. drop off one side and gaps in the handrailing.

We head for lunch at 2:00; Curt is not feeling so hot; some food and water should help that. Doug, Alicia and I had the fish:

Nope, the octapus did not help Curt feel better.

We head back down the Causeway and we come the the Construction of the Biomuseum, designed by the famous Canadian Achitect Frank Gehry. I snap pictures of the complicated structure and I will send them to my old professor at Western, Dr. Bartlett. The Biomuseum is a very interesting concept; we sit in a presentation of the future building and the programs it will host. Curt falls asleep twice: once he made a noise and woke himself up, the other time Kim gave him a jab.

Background: Last night Curt and I were with some of the Rotary members of Norte and Metro and got home at 1:30am. 7:00am we are picked up to go to the Canal.

We finish the day with presenting to the Rotary Club Panama Nordeste and head home at 10:00pm for some well needed rest. Tomorrow morning we will visit Palacio de las Garzas; pick-up: 7:00am.

MC

Mar 1 Perspective

2011-03-03T00:30:00.003-05:00

I enjoy another leisurely morning...I'm up at 7:30, and my vocational visit isn't until 10. I play some guitar, sort out my roaming plan, and send a few emails. I wander over to my next vocational visit, which is 3 blocks from the condo. Club Union is a very swanky private social club, and I barely get inside the door before I'm told to sit and wait. I wait for nearly an hour before coercing a German woman in the parking lot to act as translator so I can get inside. We discover I'm not getting in because the lady I am scheduled to meet has been called to a meeting, and hasn't finished. I suggest I go home and they call me when she is free. They agree. It's time for a SWIM!!! The pool at the condo is very quiet, and the water is cool. I feel my core temperature getting back to normal.

After a lunch Rotary Club meeting (back at Club Union), we head off to Panama la Vieja (the old city). I'm not sure how to best describe this...think about how wonderful the distillery district is in Toronto, and match that with the wide open spaces of a public park...and then age it 250 years!! The photos will give you an idea, but only a visit will make you truly appreciate it.

Alicia & Doug head for an impromptu vocational visit, while Mark, Kim & I got a car tour of the city. The contrast between upper and lower class housing is stark, and occurs with very little buffer in many areas. This is only magnified as we speed through poor neighbourhoods in a new BMW. We end up at a patio with an ocean & city skyline view.

Another presentation to two Rotary Clubs in the same room, and they're insisting they take me out to a pub for one drink. Mark agrees to come with me, and we head out at 10. We quickly realize that 1 drink may be an understatement as a bottle of rum arrives to the table. Nestor, our knight in shining armour, arrives to the pub at 1am to help us escape the comraderie. It is a welcome retreat, as 7am will come early.

I don't think I can continue to do a vocational visit every night. Maybe tomorrow's day of playing tourist will spell some rest?

C

Feb 28 Perspective

2011-03-03T00:14:00.001-05:00

Morning off to recover from long travel day. It feels a little like vacation. I update the blog, enjoy a tea, wander around the spacious condo in shorts, wondering what I've gotten myself into.

Lunch snaps me back to reality. Try local things: deep fried pig-skin, fried juca, plantain chips...and that was just the appetizer. Opt for for flour empenada (fried bread sandwich) over tripe with rice. It's hot. My normally huge appetite is at bay. All I can think about is water. Don't get dehydrated, you're thirsty, really thirsty. I arrived with Nestor right on time for lunch. We were meeting everyone else (save Alicia) there. The next people arrived 45 minutes late. Nestor explained about the Panamanian hour, which allows people to come one hour later in many circumstances, and in some cases it is even expected! I would do well here. I run 15 minutes behind schedule constantly in my day to day activities...but down here I'd be 45 minutes early all the time!

My first vocational visit was a smashing success. Sheila, my hostess, invites me to relax on a couch while she has a bowl of soup, before we get into the vocational visit. We begin chatting, and suddenly Kim is in the bookstore, having completed her vocational visit already. Sheila is so interesting, educated, knowledgeable, and passionate, that I did not realize we were chatting on the couch for 3 hours! She is working on literacy programs for Panama, in a real grassroots approach. It is amazing how much a driven person can accomplish.

The evening is upon us, which means our first presentation...OIY. We will be reviewing all of our Rotary Club visits at the end of each country, so you will have to wait!

After the Club meeting, Alicia, and her host Andy, took me to another vocational visit of mine. We end up at a nice restaurant, with a small (10x15) room that is set up with comfy chairs, a couch, and a couple hosting a karaoke night. It takes next to no persuading, and they rustle up a guitar and I play some songs for the room. We enjoy a couple drinks, and some karaoke, and we're off...

I feel great. In bed by 12, first day behind us, great start...

C

Maids and Bananas

2011-03-01T10:00:00.000-05:00

Have you ever given a maid that does not speak English a heart attack because nobody told her that there is a foreigner guest alone in the house? I have! I am still sitting here hoping that she does not call the police. Now there are two maids and they defiantly are talking about me.

I am staying at Nestor’s (the organizer for us in Panama) parent’s house. His father is a Civil Engineer like me and his mother is a teacher. Both mornings that I wake, the house is empty, besides the maids this morning.

Yesterday was a busy day for me 17 hours up and about, touring cargo logistics at the Panama Port Company, high-rise building construction sites and touring the city. I think it was more relaxed for the rest of the team, with some people having the morning off, and others enjoying horse riding on gated South American horses that neck reign (I am so jealous of Alicia, that is pretty close to exactly what my wife and I ride in Ontario).

For breakfast, Nestor and I shared papaya, watermelon, cantaloupe and bananas. That was the best banana that I have ever had in my life. Canada’s method of shipping green bananas and turning them yellow in a locker is not doing bananas justice.

I toured the city on one of the heaviest traffic days of the year: the first day of school. The school year goes March to December here. On the first day of school they do not provide buses for the children, the parents must drive to the schools. If you can drive here, you can drive anywhere.

MC

American Airlines: Consolation Prize

2011-02-28T09:13:00.000-05:00

The small silver lining to our delays and deboarding for another plane: we had some time to have a drink in the Miami airport. Doug, Alicia and Mark wandered off for burgers, but Kim and I settled into a small wine bar to relax before our new plane was ready. It was a good decision:

Yes that's a flight of red wines and a charcuterie platter...the olives were dressed with mint, a combination I need to try again before I release full judgement. I would has taken a photo of Kim's Pinot Grigio, but it was gone...

Getting Settled: Panama

2011-02-28T09:08:00.000-05:00

Words can describe the warmth of our hosts as we entered the airport waiting area. English-speaking, compassionate Rotarians who made us feel instantly comfortable.

Kim was whisked away by Alexei and his family, as his 2 children wanted to work on their English with their Canadian Girl. The rest of us piled into vehicles and took a scenic night-drive into the city. We arrived to an Italian Restaurant full of locals and tourists, and we rejoiced that we were on our first patio in months!

Our hosts for the dinner included members of three different Rotary Clubs. The food was great, and well needed after a long gap after our previous meal.

The conversation was great, and we garnered some interesting information:
1. Had we arrived on-time we were scheduled to see a baseball game...their national game, and an event my world-traveled brother insisted we try to incorporate.
2. Rodrigo (yellow shirt above) is the only Panamanian to participate in Le Mans 24 hour car race in France (11th in 79, 25th in 82)
3. Minimum wage in Panama is $450 per month
4. They are as excited to be hosting us, as we are to be travelling

Alicia headed with Andy to his horse farm out of the city, and the boys (Mark, Doug, Curt) piled in with Nestor Broce, our co-ordinator for our time in Panama. Doug was dropped with Mario, who had been at the PGA Tournament: Panama Claro Championship...won this year by Australian Matthew Goggin. Next, I (Curt) was dropped to Victor's condo. Victor was out at a concert, so I crashed immediately, saving introductions for the morning. Mark was headed to Nestor's parents house.

I'm writing on Monday morning, with the leisure/rest time we were scheduled. Only Mark has anything scheduled this morning: a visit to the Panama Port Authority.

I woke to meet Victor in his wonderfully clean condo. Plenty of food, a local cellphone for me, and promises of a big night thursday with a friend of his who owns numerous bars downtown.

Our luggage arrived early this morning as well, so my walk over to the best mall in the city will be to sample the coffee, and not to be purchasing clothes and toiletries...thank goodness.

For all you Canadians reading this, it's a balmy 26 C already this morning...

Thank You American Airlines

2011-02-28T08:35:00.000-05:00

Plane 1 (toronto-miami) over-fueled by 20,000 pounds: Delay 1 hour

Plane 2 (miami-panama) had a broken hydraulic fitting that needed replacing: Delay 1 hour
Plane 2 (miami-panama) could not get satisfactory oil pressure even after repair: Delay 1.5 hours
Plane 3 (miami-panama) worked flawlessly and was not delayed.
Unfortunately, only Mark's luggage made it aboard Plane 3.
Waiting at baggage carousel, and dealing with American Airlines official (thanks Doug): Delay 1 hour

All in all it was a lot longer day of travel than was inticipated. We woke at 3am at our Toronto hotel, and finally passed through security in Panama at 7pm. A joyous 16 hours of travel.

At least American Airlines replaced my 30 lbs of personal luggage and toiletries with this:

First Flight.....before the Afternoon Delight

2011-02-27T05:38:00.000-05:00

We have successfully made it through customs; almost lost one team member to protein powder but luckily there was a sympathetic gym junkie at the gate. Curt is starting his 28 days of bad decisions. We aren't quite sure what that means for his host Rotary club but we are hopeful that it won't mean he becomes victim to the traveling fever outside of our itinerary. Gate 15 is our open door to Miami where we have a 2 hours layover before heading to destination Panama! We are hoping Team Lider doesn't snore on the plane and embarrass us all; we are quite distinguishable by are obnoxious Canadian hats and red shirts :)

Costa Rica Itinerary

2011-02-25T14:06:00.000-05:00

Rotary Clubs
Club Rotario de Belén
Club Rotario de Rohrmoser
Club Rotario de San José

Cultural Visits
Meeting at the Canadian Embassy
Visit to the Nacional Theather Visit to Poas Volcano
Meeting with Rotaracts

Definitely lots more in this itinerary, but details were not revealed to us beyond when we will be doing other cultural visits, and our vocational visits.

Curt